![]() As you can see in the photo, there's a large gap between the wood board and the chimney. In the kitchen remodel, the wall will now be showing so I want to remove the wood boards and replace with drywall. We stuffed insulation in the open spaces to close off the cold air. After we moved in we discovered cold air coming from the top of the wood board from the attic. As you can see in the photo, the "wall" behind the refrigerator is a wood board that was open at the top. The chimney houses a vent for the basement gas furnace and gas water heater, not for the fireplace. I'm doing a kitchen remodel in Colorado and pulled one tall cabinet to reveal a chimney (see photo). Otherwise sand it with something coarse but be careful, once you sand through the trowled smooth finish what is under it is a little softer and easier to mess up, but you can always go over it again with joint coumound. Ideally you don't need to sand plaster unless it is to scuff up a too shiny plaster job. you try to feather the plaster down to nothing out on the edge but there is still thickness at the actual joint, Joint compound seems to bond better to paint, especially if you scuff sand it a bit and feathers down to nothing even better than plaster. The reason you don't want to lap plaster onto the old work is because plaster does not bond well to paint and sooner or later it will peel off the paint then when it peels back to the edge of the old finish there will be an offset. I think if you aren't satisfied with your end result that the best thing is to go over it and this time you can lap onto the old wall. So far it feels very sold and I was going to coat it with setting compound. It is plaster of paris and I wetted the surface and the plaster as it dried with a spray bottle. ![]() I dont think it is enough to try to match up, as I was thinking about using sanded paint (worked well in other room to hide imperfections).īelow is a repair I made to the loose setting compound repair. The original walls had a very light sand swirl texture. An elderly lady lived here before and I would bet humidity caused this over the years. The house was not kept up real good when I bought it and I bet the room was sealed off without AC for years. The only loose area of my recent repair is along the base board. He thinks pulling the baseboards off disturbed it enough to loosen the top coat. I had a drywall contractor look at it he said it seemed solid. Maybe I should have kept scraping it all off though. This seems to have sealed the edges down and I do not feel any hollow areas underneath it. I tried using diluted wood glue to seal the edges of where I stopped scraping. I do believe it is the top 1/8inch that is loose. if you need help there post pictures of what you have and we can get you started. I use a spray bottle andk eep the wall lubricated and the trowel clean and stroke it down until it is hard keep the surrounding existing clean If there is a texture then lay it down smoothly and texture. I forgot to tell you how to make this smooth. GEt off all that is loose as described by one of the others then report back. ![]() Is or was the room ever sealed off through a long period? An unsued, possibly unheated room will lend itself to more cracking and bond failure than a fully conditioned room. You know what? It is a messy job but if you are going to be plastering anyway you could blow insulation into the cavities before you do. The speculation about separation of the finish from the brown because of temperature difference is probably right. If you rub your hand over it and nothing rubs off you are good to go. Might help, I would not do it if it is not crumbly or dusty. When you are finished the new and the existing should be exactly flush Maybe I got ahed of myself a little. Use a wet brush or wet cloth and wipe it off the old work. It's tempting to lap the material onto the old work. The object of this is to get it flush with the existing get it smooth and keep the old work clean. While it is still wet and not set you can add another pass if necessary. You can mix more at once and have more time to et it right. For the sake of more time go with 45 or 90 minute mud. I like the EasySand and its competitors better than Durabond. The most amateur friendly material is a setting joint compound. That finish is 1/16 -1/8" right? Is the base coat, called the brown coat hard? Chalky? If it is in good shape then you aare ready to finish. If I understand rightly you have a thin finish coat over gypsum plaster over gypsum lath.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |